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Un Bois Vanille fragrance
Serge Lutens

Un Bois Vanille

EDP Unisex · 2003 · by Christopher Sheldrake
6.6 /10

Un Bois Vanille scores 8/10 for longevity and performs best in Cold conditions.

Best in Cold 8/10 longevity
From USD 160–200From EUR 147–184From GBP 126–158From PKR 45,000–55,000From AED 600–720From INR 13,280–16,600From SAR 600–750
8 Longevity
7 Sillage
5 Versatility
8 Value
4.8 Climate Avg

Fragrance Notes

Vanilla Sweet Coconut Powdery
Fragrance Note PyramidTOP NOTES0–30 min1Coconut2LicoriceHEART NOTES30–120 min1Black Vani…2Beeswax3Bitter Alm…BASE NOTES2h+1Sandalwood2Benzoin3Guaiac Wood
Top Notes — first impression, 0–30 min

Heart Notes — the core, 30 min – 2 hrs

Base Notes — the foundation, 2 hrs+
Accord ProfileVanillaSweetCoconutPowderyWoodyACCORDPROFILE

Occasions & Seasons

Best For
Leisure Date Night
Seasons
Winter Fall

Climate Performance

Avg 4.8 / 10
Extreme Heat
1/10
Avoid
45°C and above
Riyadh, Jacobabad, Kuwait City, Phoenix
Hot & Humid
1/10
Avoid
Around 35°C with high humidity
Dubai, Karachi, Mumbai, Miami
Warm & Dry
4/10
Average
Around 30°C with low humidity
Lahore, Delhi, Muscat, Los Angeles
Mild
8/10
Excellent
Around 20°C
Islamabad, Bangalore, London, San Francisco
Cold
10/10
Excellent
Below 10°C
Murree, Shimla, Moscow, New York

Expert Analysis

What Makes It Unique

A dark, smoky, resinous take on absolute vanilla that avoids the standard cake-batter trap.

Pakistan & GCC Perspective

Far too dense and sweet for South Asian summers, but a projection monster in December weather.

How It Compares

Versus Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille

The Controversy

The licorice and beeswax notes can polarize gourmand lovers seeking simple sugary sweetness.

Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille: A Considered Review

There is a category of fragrance bought once and remembered for years, and Un Bois Vanille sits in it for a measurable reason. This EDP from Serge Lutens, built on Vanilla, Sweet, Coconut, Powdery, Woody and released in 2003, was composed to be distinctive first and agreeable second. The data below shows exactly where that trade-off lands.

A dark, smoky, resinous take on absolute vanilla that avoids the standard cake-batter trap.

The Scent: Notes, Structure & Dry-Down

Un Bois Vanille opens with Coconut and Licorice — an assertive first impression that carries across a room. Once that burns off, usually inside the first half hour, the heart turns to Black Vanilla, Beeswax and Bitter Almond. The final act — the part that outlasts the working day — is Sandalwood, Benzoin and Guaiac Wood.

Strip it back to the bones and the profile reads Vanilla, Sweet, Coconut, Powdery, Woody — the kind of profile that rewards a second and third wearing.

How It Performs: The Numbers

Longevity (8/10): Un Bois Vanille delivers strong longevity for EDP. On most skin types expect 8–12 hours. A single morning application typically carries through well into the evening without reinforcement.

Sillage (7/10): Un Bois Vanille projects as a confident aura, detectable by those nearby. Application to pulse points — wrists, neck, and behind the ears — maximises projection without overwhelming the room.

Versatility (5/10): Un Bois Vanille is suited to a specific context, with a clearly defined personality that not all occasions can accommodate. It thrives in its intended context but may feel mismatched further outside that sweet spot.

Value (8/10): At around $160, Un Bois Vanille delivers significantly more than its price tag suggests — one of the better value propositions in its category.

Un Bois Vanille Across Five Climate Zones

Of the five climate zones we score, Un Bois Vanille does best in cold (Murree, New York) at 10/10 — it keeps its shape there instead of turning sharp or fading fast. The number to watch is hot & humid (Dubai, Miami) at 1/10, where you are better off reaching for something else.

Far too dense and sweet for South Asian summers, but a projection monster in December weather.

To see how it ranks against every other fragrance for your conditions, run the Climate Matcher.

When to Wear Un Bois Vanille

Un Bois Vanille is best suited to Leisure, Date Night. Its projection is calibrated for the occasions listed — confident enough to register, controlled enough to remain appropriate in close quarters.

Seasonally, Un Bois Vanille performs best in Winter, Fall. Staying within the recommended seasonal range will give you the best version of this fragrance.

Versus Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille

What Un Bois Vanille Costs — and Whether It Is Worth It

Internationally, Un Bois Vanille sits at $160–$200. That puts it in the premium designer bracket — a meaningful spend, but well short of niche-exclusive pricing.

Regional pricing: PKR 45,000–55,000 in Pakistan, AED 600–720 in the UAE. The currency switcher at the top of this page converts every price on the site — EUR, GBP, SAR and more — using current rates.

Where to buy: Internationally: Serge Lutens Boutique, Jovoy. GCC/UAE: Sephora, Harvey Nichols. Pakistan: Scentsation.

Verdict

Un Bois Vanille earns its premium through genuine distinction rather than marketing mythology — a fragrance that rewards the wearer rather than impressing bystanders.

An overall 6.4/10 puts Un Bois Vanille in solid-but-situational territory: strong where it is strong, ordinary elsewhere. Match it to the right season and occasion and it pays off.

The licorice and beeswax notes can polarize gourmand lovers seeking simple sugary sweetness.

Still deciding? Put it head-to-head against anything else in the database — scores, notes and prices side by side.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does Un Bois Vanille last?

Un Bois Vanille has a longevity score of 8/10. On average skin, expect 8–12 hours. Performance can vary with skin type, application method, and ambient temperature — heat accelerates diffusion while dry skin absorbs fragrance faster.

Is Un Bois Vanille worth the price?

At around $160, Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens is an excellent value for its price category. Its performance scores, climate range, and composition quality make it a strong value proposition.

What does Un Bois Vanille smell like?

Un Bois Vanille is characterised by Vanilla, Sweet, Coconut, Powdery, Woody accords. Opening with Coconut and Licorice, the heart revolves around Black Vanilla and Beeswax, settling into a base of Sandalwood and Benzoin.

Is Un Bois Vanille good for hot or humid weather?

Un Bois Vanille was not designed for extreme heat (score: 1/10). In genuinely hot climates, reserve it for cooled indoor environments or evening wear.

Is Un Bois Vanille for men or women?

Un Bois Vanille is marketed as a Unisex fragrance. In practice, its character is better defined by its composition than by any marketing category.